PHO-nomenal pho

Around ten years ago my life was altered forever when I was first introduced to a large steaming bowl of delicious pho. The interweb of flavor in the clear broth played across my tongue like a slow ballad. Soups had never been on my list of favorite dishes but pho not only put soup on the map for me, it also lays claim as my favorite food.

Pho can be personalized to your distinct flavor palette. You can make it sweet or you can make it spicy. Piled high with meat or opt for vegetarian. Its endless possibilities welcome all to find the unique combination that works for them. A constant across all pho is its depthful bone broth. The broth may be clear but make no mistake, there is more than enough flavor tucked in its patient brew. Pho is one of those dishes that have a simple complexity to them. It has simple ingredients but the preparation and the dedication to finding the right balance between all its flavors sets this dish apart.

Inside a bowl of pho is a combination of many cultural influences. Spices such as cardamom originate in India, and star anise from China. The specific kind of rice noodles used in the soup have their roots in China as well. During the French occupation, the French brought their love for beef and introduced Vietnam to a wide variety of new cooking techniques and preparation styles. Because neither culture nor cuisine is static, today’s pho with sriracha and hoisin sauce doesn’t exactly resemble its humble beginnings. It has now taken on a life of its own and has become America’s favorite Vietnamese dish.

Pho and other Vietnamese dishes made their way over to the States mostly after the Vietnam War when thousands of Vietnamese refugees made their way to major cities, mainly along the west coast. The influx of Vietnamese people created a demand for familiar food that reminded them of home. Bahn mi sandwiches and pho reigned as the most popular among the refugees and those new to the cuisine. Specifically, Saigon-style pho, which these days is what is by far most popular in the States due to its creative use of ingredients and its ability to take on many different flavors.

Now that you know some of the history of pho, where can you get some? Pho is served in an array of settings. From very casual to fancy restaurants, a pho lover has options when looking for a steaming bowl. I’ll take you to three options, each more elevated than the last. How do the soups compare, what vibe is best, and what other dishes are worth trying at these restaurants?

First, I’m going to my go-to pho spot, Pho Nguyen’s House in Lynnwood. This local joint serves the masses with speedy service and delicious affordable food every time. Its open floor plan seats many and can accommodate large groups, but beware, it can get loud when at capacity.  With over ten years of experience, Pho Nguyen’s House understands how to get people in and out quickly and happily.

Here I ordered a Beef Brisket bowl of pho. Its steam welcomed me into its depth. The light broth is complemented with decadent rice noodles and a generous portion of beef. Pho Nguyen sources their ingredients from farmers' markets whenever possible ensuring freshness. The jalapenos are crisp and pack a punch, the basil adds an herbaceous note, and the bean sprouts are crunchy and fresh. The broth is savory on its own but benefits from a squeeze of hoisin sauce and maybe a little sriracha. Overall a classic delicious bowl every time.

Honorable mention here at Pho Nguyen’s House goes to their chicken banh mi sandwich. Using a combination of wheat flour and rice flour to create a light airy baguette,  you’re left with a vehicle that is fluffy on the inside and crackling on the outside. The chicken is lightly charred and seasoned perfectly. The sandwich is topped with crunchy pickled vegetables and cilantro. Many regard the bahn mi as the world's most flavorful sandwich as it touches on all 5 major flavors. Whether you agree with that label or not, there is no denying that it's a flavor bomb and Pho Nguyen’s House knows how to deliver.

Next up on our list is Cafe 79 in Kirkland. This small eatery offers authentic dishes at a modest price point. Family owned and operated, the staff kindly welcomes you in and is attentive throughout your stay. While small, its trendy interior creates an intimate feel and hosts many plants around you to give it a natural feel. The menu is refined down to a few options, a quality over quantity approach. With my decision made easy, I was ready to eat.

The small bowl of beef pho was enough to leave you satisfied. Before even picking up the chopsticks I knew I was in for something special. The aromatics of the broth were palatable. Taking my first sip I was amazed at how much flavor was in the broth alone. Deep beef flavors were complemented with notes of cilantro and basil. The rice noodles were thin and light. The  slivers of rare beef steak added more umami and texture to the dish. Its delightfully delicate flavor was so good that I ate the whole thing without adding any sauce, which for me is a big deal.

In addition to the pho I also tried their Bo Kho which is a slow-cooked marinated beef soup. This soup felt like pho’s heavier, cozier cousin. Cafe 79 understands the importance and role of aromatics. Unlike a thick beef stew, bo kho has a lighter broth with huge chunks of fall-apart beef along with big chunks of carrots. The broth is a well-seasoned dark red with a heavy beef flavor. Lemongrass and basil cut through the richness giving it a light crisp finish . Served with a baguette, it makes for a great hearty meal.

Finally, we have Ba Bar at their University Village location in Seattle. Ba Bar offers Vietnamese street-food-inspired dishes while presenting an elevated trendy restaurant. A wide variety of dishes can be found on the menu. Ba Bar is part of the Saigon Sibling Restaurant collective group. This family-owned collective has seen the praise of many critics. Most recently winning Seattle Magazine’s 2023 Best Pho. Dedication to authenticity and creativity has helped the Bahn family find good fortune in many of their restaurant endeavors. With so much praise I had high expectations.

Appearing in front of me was a bowl of thin rice noodles piled high with beef brisket and eye of round steak. Around the bowl, you find all of the traditional pairs such as basil, bean sprouts, lime, jalapenos, and hoisin. The aroma showcased Meyer Ranch Beef and a few of the aromatics, most prominently star anise. The flavor of the broth was similar, with heavy beef flavor while the aromatics took a backseat. The addition of hoisin and sriracha was of great benefit here. The beef was nice and tender in contrast to the bean sprouts and jalapenos which had a snappy bite. Overall a significantly milder broth than the other two on this list but still a great classic bowl.

Accompanying this bowl of pho I also tried their Rotisserie Chicken plate served with broken rice and pickled vegetables. This dish was a wonderful experience of texture. The chicken boasted an impossibly crispy skin and the pickled vegetables not only had the perfect amount of sour tang but were also super crunchy. The quality of the ingredients was on full display. The chicken was well seasoned with lemon grass and shallots and was very juicy. Also on this plate was a ginger soy vinaigrette that I found myself dunking everything I could into. This was a fantastic dish that felt fresh and I know I will be ordering it again.

Now that we have tried and experienced three similar but also vastly different bowls of pho, what have we learned? First and foremost, I am far from an expert on Vietnamese cuisine and am not an authority to speak on the authenticity of any of these dishes. With that being said, some bowls stood out to me. All three pho bowls were great but Cafe 79 takes the top spot. The decadent broth was perfectly balanced and the bowl offered many textures and aromas. This is a spot I know I will be visiting again and again. In terms of what accompanying dish was the best, that one goes to Ba Bar’s Rotisserie Chicken. The succulent meat under that incredibly crispy skin made an unforgettable combination, not to mention its pairings of crunchy pickled vegetables and broken rice. It's a wonderful dish that deserves praise.

Each of these three locations brought a unique aspect to the experience of eating Vietnamese food. Pho Nguyen House caters to the fast-casual consumer who wants a great meal and needs it to be efficient and convenient. Cafe 79 is a considerably smaller restaurant so offers a more intimate vibe. You can see the dedication here both in the quality of the food and the quality of the staff. Ba Bar offers a variety of approachable meals which makes it the perfect place to try Vietnamese food if you haven't before. Their locations offer the possibility to also make a whole evening of the event.

Vietnamese cuisine is a direct reflection of the country itself. It has shifted and swayed as the population has and the cuisine has benefited greatly from its influences. Perhaps the greatest beneficiaries of the evolution of Vietnamese cuisine are those of us who can now enjoy this wonderful cuisine on our side of the Pacific.